A Hot Spring Inn Surrounded by Silence and Nature
Night falls quickly in the valleys. Around dusk, the inn’s lamps are lit—a scene that has remained unchanged since its opening. Located at the foot of Mt. Echigo-Komagatake, Koma no Yu Sanso has no electricity, earning it the name “Lamp no Yado.” It’s a favorite retreat for travelers seeking nature and tranquility.
The History of Koma no Yu Onsen
Koma no Yu Onsen is closely tied to a once-thriving silver mine. In its heyday around the year 1700, Ginzan-daira (literally “Silver Mountain Plain”) was home to a bustling silver-mining town of some 2,000 households. Supplies were carried on horseback from Koide, and Koma no Yu—midway between Ginzan-daira and Koide, near the entrance to the Shiori Pass—became a key rest stop. One day, a packhorse driver discovered a hot spring and found relief from his travels. This event is said to mark the beginning of Koma no Yu. Even after the mine closed, loggers floating lumber downriver to Koide would stop here to warm their chilled bodies in its soothing waters.
Many travelers still come in search of that same hot spring. We spoke with the owner, Mr. Takamitsu Sakurai:
“With a flow rate of 2,000 liters per minute, our hot spring water is abundant and constantly fed straight from the source at 33°C. It’s comfortably lukewarm, so you can soak for a long time. The water is so gentle on skin, it can even be used as facial toner.”
Amid the sound of the Sarinagawa River, you can fully relax, letting time slip away while immersed in this naturally gifted onsen. Surprisingly, many guests do indeed use the spring water in place of regular skincare products.
“If you stay in the water for two or three hours, it’s like getting a spa treatment. We once heard from a guest with atopic dermatitis who had been using store-bought onsen water as a facial mist. After trying our natural spring water instead, they found it exceptionally helpful. That’s how we started sharing our water with others. Before long, it earned a strong reputation with people in the beauty industry. Now everyone here uses it in place of standard toner.”
They say the water even produces so many tiny bubbles that, if you fill a plastic bottle, about half of it becomes foam—similar to carbonated springs but with even finer bubbles that cling to your skin. Within five minutes, you can practically draw letters in the foam. This is all thanks to the onsen’s freshness and plentiful flow.
Life at a Lamp-Lit Inn
“As you can see, we’re deep in the mountains without any electrical lines. We still rely on kerosene lamps for light. For safety, we’ve fitted a few of the old lamps with small 15-watt bulbs, but our guest rooms have no air-conditioning, no TV, and no refrigerator. We generate just a tiny amount of power on-site, and it’s a real challenge. We do produce some electricity using the hot spring’s water flow, but it’s only a small amount.”
Even cell phones don’t work here.
“We don’t have a telephone line, either, so our only communication is through the inn’s satellite phone. Sometimes, it can be hard for guests to get through.”
In a world where convenience is the norm, Koma no Yu Sanso offers an experience of merging with nature instead.
When asked how he hopes guests will spend their time here, Mr. Sakurai says:
“First, soak leisurely in the hot spring while listening to the clear flow of the Sarinagawa River and immersing yourself in this grand natural setting. Because the water is lukewarm, you can bathe for an extended time, warming yourself to the core. At night, under the glow of our lamps, you might enjoy reading a book or chatting with friends, savoring the quiet mountain atmosphere.”
“Many couples come here to soak in the mild waters and, with no TV around, talk to each other by lamplight. We often hear comments like, ‘It’s been ages since we talked this much—probably not since our honeymoon!’”
Here, you can truly listen to the sounds of nature—birds singing, the river’s murmur, the breeze in the trees. By sharpening your five senses, you become one with your surroundings. Free from the pull of television and smartphones, you can spend quality time with those who matter most. Koma no Yu Onsen is more than just a hot spring; it’s a haven where those weary of modern life can rediscover themselves.
Koma no Yu Sansou, “The Lantern Inn”
[Uonuma City | Closed in Winter]
(Closed from November to May – please inquire for current operating dates.)
